Rebuilding Scotty Electrics
Last Updated: 7/10/2007
Many of you have had questions about the electrical wiring. 
Here is how I did it.  Your mileage may very. 
Although I have an AAS degree in  Electrical Technology, I am NOT a certified electrician.
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Here is where the AC wiring goes up in and over the ceiling to the cabinet above the sink. 
Shown is the wire up top, near the ceiling.  This wire is only a two conductor wire.  Its stranded wire, just like the orange extension cord wires, it is NOT solid core wire as you
will find in most house wiring.  This does not mean its unsafe, its the same stuff used in extension cords.  And because its stranded, it does not fit around the screws on normal electrical outlets very well. But being that it is only two wires, it does mean you won't have a ground.  Which for safety reasons, most electrical codes require.    But if you have only a TV or Cell Phone charger or  any other two prong AC power plug, then it should work just fine and be as safe as any other two-wire extension cord.  Just don't plug a heater into it or an A/C unit!!  The size of the wire will not handle the load.  How I splice the orange cord into the Scotty white cord is shown later.
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Here is how I install electrical outlets. I use orange 14 gauge  extension cord wire which runs back to a 15 amp breaker on the circuit beaker box.  I then place an inch of shrink tubing on the end (the black stuff) where I stripped back the orange plastic.  Then I tin the wire tips (place some solder on them)
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This is the type of outlet I use. It has slots to hold the wire, rather than just wrapping the wire around the screw as with normal outlets.  This will hold the wire tighter, because the wire is not solid as normal house wiring is.  Although when I tin the wire, it will help make it solid, but its still not exactly the way house wiring is.   Loose wires create heat and heat creates fire and fire burns down Scotties!!
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I then connect the Black wires (hot) to the Brass colored screws (shown above), the white wires (neutral) to the Silver colored screws and the green wires (ground) to the green colored screw.  Since there is only one green screw. I needed to twist together all the green wires, solder them together, place a wire nut over it all, then attach another green wire from this junction to the green screw on the outlet.   Sorry no picture of this.
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Here it is all put together.  This outlet will, eventually, be used for my A/C unit which will hopefully fit in this cabinet opening.  The wire runs back to the breaker box with out going any place else.
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This is how I join two wires together. This is the wire out of the ceiling in the cabinetover the sink.  The other end of the wire will connect to an outlet box, and then the lights over the sink will run into the box. I first twist the wires together.
Do NOT use Rattail joints use Western Union joints as show.
Then I solder the two wires together.  
As with the color coding on all the other wires in the Scotty, these wires are no exception, so instead of Black & White, these are Red & White/Red.    The red wire (from the ceiling) connects to the black wire (going to the outlet box) and the white/redwire (from the ceiling) connects to the white wire (going to the outlet box).
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Then I place shrink tubing around each wire.
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Then I place a large piece of shrink tubing around the entire piece of wire.  Now its just as good as new!!
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Here is the back of the outlet setup over the kitchen sink.  The white wire goes from the outlet to the 110V AC light over the sink, the black wire is from the line running over the ceiling that we just spliced together above, and the other larger and thicker black wire is for the 12V DC lighter outlet, it also comes from over the ceiling, but it also goes to the 12V DC light over the table, 12V light over the sink and 12V fan in the vent over the stove.  The orange is a ty-wrap working as a strain relief for the cable going to the 12 volt outlet.  The cables are stapled in using a cable staple gun purchased from Home Depot.
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Picture of front of outlets.  For this particular setup, since it only has two wires and no ground had to use a two conductor 110V outlet.  Hard to find unless you have a house over 50 years old.
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Better view of the outlet.

Last Updated: 07/05/2006
inside-3
Sears Deep-Cycle 22NF 50AH Sealed Wheel Chair BatteryThis battery can be placed on the inside of trailerbecause it is sealed and does not need venting.Switch #1 on right controls house lights & vent fan power.Switch #2 on right controls 12V outlets and fridge powerand the 12V water pump.Terminal Strip is where connection for trailer brakes,trailer lights and tow vehicle power are made.
inside-4
Grey box on left is a Circuit breaker box with one15A breakerfor lights and outlets and a 20A breaker for microwave, fridge & A/C.Duplex outlet w/white cover is a Ground-Fault Interrupter.Orange cord connects to the lights and outlets in camper.Black cord connects to processor controlled battery charger.Black box next to charger converts 12Volts to 110Volts.Orange cord can be plugged into 110V inverter when shore power is off.The will never be a way to plug microwave, fridge and A/C into 12V to 110V converter.
Breaker #1 connects to Ground Fault Interrupter outlet.Breaker #2 connects to Refrigerator, Microwave and A/C.
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110V outlets and 12V outlets are mounted in pairs.Where ever there is a 12V outlet, there is also a 110V outlet. (12V on left 110V on right).Outlets pictured are located under the dinette table.Link to electrical information.

inside-2
110V and 12V outlets next to the 110V lamp are located on the wall to the left of refrigerator.  The lamp was found for sale at a Lowes lumber store.
Page Last Updated:  Friday, June 16, 2006

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